The Art of 'Frankenstein' Costumes: An Interview with Kate Hawley
In Guillermo del Toro’s cinematic universe, where gothic romanticism intertwines with breathtaking visuals, the costume design plays a pivotal role in weaving the narrative. Veteran costumer Kate Hawley, known for her contributions to ambitious productions like “Pacific Rim” and “Crimson Peak,” once again partners with del Toro to bring Mary Shelley’s “Frankenstein” to life with an extraordinary array of garments. Her work transforms the characters into living pieces of art, from Oscar Isaac’s charismatic Victor to Mia Goth’s ethereal Elizabeth, making each costume an integral part of the film's emotional and visual tapestry.
The Intricate Tapestry of “Frankenstein” Costumes: A Deep Dive with Kate Hawley
Renowned costume designer Kate Hawley, a frequent collaborator with visionary director Guillermo del Toro, recently shared insights into her most ambitious project to date: the operatic reimagining of Mary Shelley’s “Frankenstein.” During an interview conducted in a lavish suite at London’s Corinthia Hotel, Hawley unveiled the intricate details and creative process behind the film’s stunning wardrobes. This cinematic endeavor, currently gracing theaters and set to debut on Netflix on November 7th, also features an immersive exhibition titled “Frankenstein: Crafting a Tale Eternal” at Selfridges.
Hawley’s design philosophy for “Frankenstein” is a meticulous blend of historical influences and visionary creativity. She describes dressing Oscar Isaac’s impulsive scientist, Victor Frankenstein, in rich velvet coats and dazzling jewelry, while Mia Goth’s Elizabeth, the object of his intense affection, dons an array of extraordinary ensembles. These include silk ballgowns adorned with cosmic patterns, vibrant, flowing veils, feathered headpieces reminiscent of halos, delicate tulle-lined fans, and rare archival pieces from Tiffany & Co. A standout creation is Elizabeth’s ghostly, multi-layered wedding dress, designed to reflect the Creature’s bandages and skeletal structure, symbolizing her emotional connection to him rather than Victor. Hawley noted that despite their visual grandeur, these costumes are crafted to deepen the audience's immersion in del Toro’s magical world, never overshadowing the profound narrative of a creator’s destructive ambition.
The collaborative synergy between Hawley and del Toro is deeply rooted in their shared appreciation for operatic aesthetics and classical horror. Hawley revealed that their initial introduction by Peter Jackson bypassed traditional portfolio reviews, with del Toro instead examining her bookshelf, which was filled with works by artists like Joel-Peter Witkin, Caravaggio, and Goya. This shared artistic language became the cornerstone of their partnership. For “Frankenstein,” del Toro provided detailed “bibles” for each character, guiding Hawley’s creative direction. He specifically requested that Victor’s childhood scenes be dominated by a palette of red, black, and white, with white symbolizing death in the opening icy landscapes.
Elizabeth’s costumes undergo a “metamorphosis,” with her shifting colors mirroring other characters and her ethereal nature. Hawley drew inspiration from William Paley’s “Natural Theology,” Victorian book marbling, and even insects, incorporating cellular patterns and malachite into Elizabeth’s gowns. The jewelry, particularly the Tiffany & Co. pieces like the blue beetle necklace, played a crucial role in influencing the color choices, inspiring layering of purples, greens, and blues to create deep, rich tones without using black. The necklines of Elizabeth’s dresses subtly nod to portraits of Mary Shelley, while voluminous crinolines, though logistically challenging, reinforced del Toro’s vision. Hawley also highlighted the intentional use of sheer fabrics and veils for Elizabeth, making her seem almost “ephemeral” and elusive, a muse Victor constantly pursues.
Victor Frankenstein’s attire was influenced by figures like Mick Jagger in 1970s Soho and Rudolf Nureyev, aiming for a “rock star” quality that reflects his rebellious and dandyish nature. His blood-stained shirts and iconic forest-green dressing gown, worn with a “William Blake energy,” underscore his aristocratic background and disregard for convention. This attention to detail extends to the technical aspects of filmmaking, as Hawley collaborated closely with cinematographer Dan Laustsen to ensure costumes would “read” effectively under challenging candlelight. This often meant layering different shades of fabric, such as using greys within a blue dress, to achieve the desired effect on screen.
Hawley’s dedication to her craft and her deep understanding of del Toro’s artistic vision have culminated in a truly remarkable cinematic experience, with her contributions to “Frankenstein” poised to earn her well-deserved recognition during the upcoming awards season.
Kate Hawley’s meticulous approach to costume design in “Frankenstein” serves as a powerful reminder that every visual element in a film can be a storytelling device. Her ability to translate complex themes, character arcs, and emotional undertones into wearable art elevates the narrative, making the costumes not just beautiful, but integral to understanding the film’s profound impact. This detailed artistry transforms the viewing experience, illustrating how thoughtful design can immerse an audience deeper into a fantastical world and its emotional core.