Balenciaga Embraces a New Olfactory Chapter with Reimagined Fragrance Collection

The Scent of a New Beginning: Balenciaga's Olfactory Evolution

A Historic Revival: The Return of Le Dix and Its Modern Interpretation

Three weeks prior to Pierpaolo Piccioli's inaugural collection as creative director, Balenciaga, under the Kering group, is launching its first set of fragrances in several years. Gianfranco Gianangeli, the CEO of Balenciaga, describes the introduction of Piccioli and the new fragrance line as a thrilling new chapter for Balenciaga's haute couture and scent narrative. He emphasizes that the synergy between fashion and fragrance has been an integral part of the house's identity for nearly eight decades.

Honoring Heritage: A New Collection Rooted in Cristóbal Balenciaga's Vision

The new line features ten distinct fragrances, conceptualized during the tenure of Piccioli's predecessor, Demna, and his team, and is designed to echo the enduring legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga. A highlight of the collection is the revival of Le Dix, the fragrance initially released by Balenciaga in 1947. This reinterpretation maintains the essence of the original formula and bottle design, with a contemporary addition of a spray dispenser, absent in the 1947 version.

Strategic Shift: Kering Beauté Takes the Reins

This marks a significant change in Balenciaga's fragrance strategy, as previous productions were handled by Coty under a licensing agreement, which concluded in 2021. This expiration provided Kering with the opportunity to integrate fragrance development in-house. Rather than continuing from where Coty left off, Kering Beauté has opted for a fresh start, reconnecting with Balenciaga's foundational principles.

Balancing Tradition and Innovation: The Vision of Kering Beauté's CEO

Raffaella Cornaggia, CEO of Kering Beauté, the group's beauty division, who collaborated with Balenciaga on the fragrance's development, expresses the profound respect for the house's heritage by reintroducing Cristóbal Balenciaga's very first scent. She states their commitment to upholding the brand's core values, which inherently blend historical roots with modern innovation. Cornaggia shared these insights during an exclusive discussion with Vogue at the Kering Beauté office, conveniently located near the Kering headquarters.

Growth and Ambition: Kering Beauté's Market Impact and Philosophy

Kering Beauté, established in 2023 by the French conglomerate as a distinct entity, was created to support its brands in expanding their beauty offerings. The division commenced operations by introducing Bottega Veneta fragrances a year ago. Cornaggia articulates the strong ambition to manifest the distinct essence of their fashion houses through beauty, particularly through high perfumery. She views this as a unique opportunity to construct an entire brand universe within a new category, extending the brand's expression. Following the success with Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga is now the focus. Furthermore, Kering Beauté has completed the acquisition and integration of Creed, a prestigious heritage fragrance house.

A Glimpse into the Collection: Notes of Nostalgia and Innovation

The updated Le Dix formulation excludes animal-derived ingredients, which are no longer common in perfumery, and instead incorporates iris aldehyde molecules. Notably, it retains violet leaves, mirroring the original composition. Cornaggia highlights their fortune in possessing the original formula, which served as a foundation for a modern reinterpretation. This approach resonates with a growing trend of nostalgia, where vintage fragrances are gaining renewed interest across generations. The collection also includes scents like No Comment, reflecting Balenciaga's philosophy of letting creations speak for themselves; Getaria, named after Balenciaga's birthplace; Cristóbal, an enigmatic tribute to the designer; and Incense Perfumum, a deep black fragrance symbolizing the designer's affinity for the color.

Pricing and Accessibility: Expanding Reach with Exclusivity

Each 100ml bottle is priced at £230, positioning it competitively within the luxury fragrance market. Additionally, a Discovery Box is available for £285, along with a £350 bag charm, offering a luxurious accessory comparable to popular collectibles. Cornaggia explains the decision to prioritize a perfume collection format over a single institutional fragrance as a strategy to ignite desire from the highest segment of the market and to display the diverse facets of the brand. A collection also enables Balenciaga to cater to a broad spectrum of preferences, anticipating regional variations in scent choices. Gianangeli likens the fragrance collection to a wardrobe, where each scent embodies distinct characteristics, reflecting Balenciaga's design language. He foresees the collection attracting new clients, extending Balenciaga's appeal to those outside the traditional fashion sphere who seek exclusivity, craftsmanship, and elegant innovation in high perfumery.

Global Distribution and a Dedicated Fragrance Destination

Cristóbal Balenciaga named his original fragrance "Le Dix" (The Ten) in homage to the address of his atelier at 10 Avenue George V, which now serves as the brand's couture store. To celebrate the new fragrance launch, a section of this store has been transformed into a perfume boutique, opening its doors on September 10th. Gianangeli notes that with the addition of the fragrance store, 10 Avenue George V becomes a multifaceted destination, housing couture salons on the first floor and both individual fragrance and couture stores on the ground floor. The distribution of the collection is meticulously managed, launching initially in select Balenciaga fashion boutiques across North America and Europe, as well as through e-commerce. Cornaggia believes in the strong e-commerce potential for Balenciaga. The collection will subsequently be introduced in Balenciaga stores in the Middle East, Asia, and other regions by year-end, reaching approximately 200 boutiques. Future distribution expansion will be limited to premier points of sale. British artist Katerina Jebb is behind the campaign for the Balenciaga collection, featuring a video that visually echoes the meticulous recreation of the original Le Dix bottle.

Future Horizons: Kering Beauté's Strategic Focus

Regarding future beauty initiatives at Balenciaga, Cornaggia indicates ambitious development plans and upcoming milestones. However, the immediate focus remains squarely on the rapidly expanding fragrance sector, rather than cosmetics. During Kering's annual earnings conference in February, François-Henri Pinault, then president and outgoing CEO, underscored fragrances as the absolute priority for Kering Beauté in the coming years. Pinault also outlined a strategy for Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga: to position them in high-end perfumery for strong visibility and desirability, followed by a move into the higher-volume prestige segment within 18 months to two years. Kering has yet to comment on whether it will internalize Gucci fragrances once the current licensing agreement with Coty expires. This will likely be a key agenda item for Luca de Meo, Kering's incoming CEO, who acknowledged beauty as a sector with significant momentum and acquisition potential for the group, particularly in brand licensing. As for Kering Beauté's other houses, there are no immediate plans for additional fragrance launches, as Cornaggia emphasizes the substantial work already undertaken in establishing two new beauty brands (Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga) and developing a significant high-end perfumery brand (Creed).