This season's Paris Fashion Week has been a showcase of fresh talent and bold new directions in fashion. Several debut collections have garnered significant attention, marking a turning point for iconic brands. Julian Klausner's first collection for Dries Van Noten demonstrated his deep understanding of the brand’s heritage, while Haider Ackermann’s designs for Tom Ford received an unprecedented standing ovation. Sarah Burton’s inaugural collection for Givenchy, inspired by the label’s founder Hubert de Givenchy, also stood out. Additionally, the anticipation builds for Matthieu Blazy's debut at Chanel. Literary influences permeated many collections, from Oscar Wilde at Alexander McQueen to Vladimir Nabokov at Róisín Pierce. Themes of Britishness and historical eras also played prominent roles, creating a rich tapestry of inspiration.
New Beginnings and Timeless Inspirations at Paris Fashion Week
In the heart of Paris, during the autumn/winter 2025 fashion week, the city witnessed a series of remarkable debuts that promised a new chapter for several renowned fashion houses. The event kicked off with Julian Klausner’s presentation for Dries Van Noten. Having spent six years working closely with the original designer, Klausner brought a fresh yet familiar perspective to the runway, showcasing an exquisite blend of intricate prints and textures that resonated deeply with the audience.
Haider Ackermann’s arrival at Tom Ford was equally celebrated. His Matrix-inspired leather garments and vibrant, candy-colored tailoring not only earned him a rare standing ovation but also quickly found their way onto celebrities like Cate Blanchett, who sported the pastel-pink suit and lime-green shirt just days after the show. This swift adoption by high-profile figures underscored the immediate impact of Ackermann’s vision.
Sarah Burton’s return to Givenchy marked another highlight. Her collection, which drew inspiration from Hubert de Givenchy’s groundbreaking work in 1952, featured a stunning white lace dress that echoed the elegance of the brand’s roots. Elle Fanning’s appearance in this dress at the Oscars previewed Burton’s direction, blending tradition with modernity.
Meanwhile, anticipation built around Matthieu Blazy’s upcoming debut at Chanel. In the interim, Chanel’s studio team presented a romantic collection filled with delicate organza overlays and ruffled collars, maintaining the house’s signature charm. At Chloé, Chemena Kamali continued to redefine contemporary bohemian style, while Dior transported viewers back to the Tudor and Elizabethan eras through Virginia Woolf’s Orlando.
Literary references were a recurring theme this season. Seán McGirr’s Alexander McQueen collection paid homage to Oscar Wilde and the 19th-century dandy, resulting in one of his most compelling works yet. Róisín Pierce incorporated lines from Vladimir Nabokov and Sylvia Plath into her show’s soundtrack, adding layers of depth. Fidan Novruzova, a Central Saint Martins graduate, explored the 1920s and 1930s through Evelyn Waugh’s Vile Bodies, offering a unique perspective on the era.
British themes also emerged strongly. Andreas Kronthaler, creative director of Vivienne Westwood, referenced Clapham South, infusing a sense of place into his designs. Ganni, a favorite among Scandinavian fashion enthusiasts, embraced oversized knits and tapestry skirts that evoked the ambiance of the British countryside.
One notable aspect of this season was the reduced capacity at some major shows. Givenchy limited seating to 300 guests, and Tom Ford hosted only 200 attendees. Louis Vuitton, moving from the Louvre to L’Étoile du Nord, cut its guest list from 1,000 to 300, aligning with the train platform theme of the venue. These changes reflected a shift towards more intimate, focused presentations.
From this journalist’s perspective, the emergence of these new creative directors signals a dynamic period for fashion. Each debut brings a fresh interpretation of established brands, blending history with innovation. The literary and cultural references add layers of meaning, inviting deeper engagement from both the fashion industry and its audience. This season’s Paris Fashion Week has set the stage for an exciting future in fashion design.