Supporting Emerging Designers: The Crucial Role of Retailers in a Challenging Fashion Landscape
In recent years, the fashion industry has faced unprecedented challenges, particularly for independent designers. A report from late 2024 highlighted that both 2024 and 2025 have been difficult periods for these creators. Building a successful fashion business has always been complex, but recent market shifts, including the closure of several prominent retailers, have exacerbated these difficulties. Despite this, there remains a strong commitment to supporting emerging talent, with key players like Ssense playing a pivotal role in nurturing new voices in fashion. This article explores the current state of the fashion industry and the efforts being made to support smaller brands.
The fashion landscape has undergone significant changes over the past few years. According to industry experts, such as former British Fashion Council CEO Caroline Rush and Machine-A founder Stavros Karelis, the situation is more challenging than ever before. Karelis noted that the past 15 years have seen increasing obstacles for fashion brands, especially emerging designers. The decline of major retailers like Matches has left a gap in the market, making it crucial to support small-scale designers who bring fresh ideas and innovation to the industry.
Ssense, a leading online retailer, has taken a proactive approach to supporting emerging designers. Brigitte Chartrand, Vice President of Women’s Wear Buying at Ssense, emphasized that championing new talent has been integral to the company’s success. Since its inception, Ssense has dedicated itself to promoting innovative designers alongside established names. The platform offers customers a curated selection of both well-known and lesser-known brands, ensuring that emerging designers receive equal attention. Through features like "You May Also Like" and personalized recommendations, Ssense encourages exploration and discovery, giving lesser-known brands valuable exposure.
Beyond simply featuring these brands on their platform, Ssense also collaborates with emerging designers on exclusive capsule collections. These collaborations provide designers with insights into customer purchasing behaviors and merchandising strategies, helping them refine their offerings. For instance, Ssense has partnered with designers like Wed Studio, Nicklas Skovgaard, and Conner Ives on bridal collections, further expanding their reach. Additionally, Ssense has featured rising stars such as Hodakova, Lii, Colleen Allen, and Julie Kegels in editorial content and marketing campaigns, providing them with additional visibility.
Looking ahead, Ssense is committed to continuing its support for emerging designers. Chartrand highlighted some of the brands they are excited about for the upcoming year. For fans of Bottega Veneta and The Row, she recommends Christen, praising the craftsmanship and quality of the pieces. Lemaire enthusiasts will likely appreciate Bambou Roger Kwong, while Laura Andraschko is expected to attract fans of Fidan Novruzova and Abra. The addition of Willy Chavarria womenswear further diversifies the offerings available on the platform.
The fashion industry's shift towards individuality, especially among younger generations, underscores the importance of supporting small-scale designers. These creators offer unique, one-of-a-kind pieces that larger labels often cannot match. As the demand for distinctive fashion continues to grow, platforms like Ssense play a vital role in fostering the next generation of design talent. By providing exposure and support, they ensure that the thrill of fashion remains alive and vibrant.